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Texworld Worldwide Textile Rendez-vous
Paris Le Bourget, 22-25 September 2008
A sound business platform,
Texworld is facing the future by making way for youth.
- A satisfactory session despite the financial crisis and the transport strikes.
- Exhibitors increasingly adapting to the Western market.
- The race for organic textiles sparks all kinds of initiatives
- "Designers & Fashion" and "Esmod Beijing" encounter out and out success.
Against the background of a global financial crisis and despite a strike during the first three days by the RER B, the main line for access to the show, this session of Texworld was marked by a remarkable dynamism on the part of both exhibitors and visitors, as if the different players at the show had decided to brave the storm more than ever.
Texworld remains a sound platform for business and not just during times of a thriving economy but also when great economic and financial uncertainties abound.
This 23rd session has in fact been one that is strong on initiatives and in new developments and is proving to be very promising for the future.
If the number of visitors has dropped it is in a reasonable proportion and compensated for by a more marked quality of buyers, which has been confirmed by numerous exhibitors.
Echoing this development, visitors have observed a constant progression in terms of creativity and quality of products on the part of the exhibitors. Even if the prices for products are somewhat higher in the opinion of visitors, who at the same time recognise the efforts made in striving for quality, they continue to be the most competitive on the market.
Texworld remains a trade show but also a meeting place for making new contacts in surroundings that are both attractive and very welcoming.
The organisers of Texworld had barely taken note of the strikes that would have an impact on the journey to Paris Le Bourget when a real mobilisation of the team took place so that, from Monday morning on, both exhibitors and visitors could be shuttled from the Gare du Nord to the replacement bus. Every day one of the exhibition organisers, surrounded by a bevy of hostesses, was present at this strategic location, notably Michael Scherpe, President of Texworld, on Monday, in order to guide visitors, foreign ones in particular, towards the bus.
This example illustrates the show organisers' concern as they endeavour to promote the interest and well-being of both visitors and exhibitors alike.
15 952 buyers from all over the world came to Texworld in order to discover the products (fabrics and clothing) from 872 exhibitors. This figure is down 10% compared to September 2007's session (17 741 visitors) and only 2.24% compared to the session in February 2008 (16 340 visitors).
Results compared to February 2007 are entirely satisfactory as, from this date on, Texworld's canvassing and marketing services carried out the groundwork to attract potential visitors, a task that is beginning to bear fruit.
As far as the downturn in comparison to September 2007 is concerned, it can be explained by the lack of the usual means of transport which caused an approximately 5% estimated loss in visitors in total compared to the previous September, which in turn had a significant impact on the number of repeat visits; but it can also be explained by the reduction in size of the Chinese delegation and its VIPS, by the absence of specific guests invited from the Chinese embassy in Paris which was largely covered at the event by the visit to Texworld by Mr Du, the Chinese Minister for Textiles and Clothing. And this more than by the impact from the international financial crisis.
The greater majority of buyers (approx. 80%) came from Europe, a total that has only declined by 8.6% compared to September 2007 and is holding up well compared to February 2008 (+ 0.28%).
The latter figure can be explained by the good result shown by the visitors from France (+2.67%), Germany (+1.7 %), the Netherlands (+10%), Poland (+9%) Russia (+17%), and Belgium (+16%). On the other hand the number of Spanish, Italian and British visitors has declined.
As far as the United States is concerned, the results are encouraging: United States (+11%), Canada (+3.5 %), Brazil (+30%), these figures are in comparison to those at the February show.
On the other hand, the number of visitors from Asia, which had declined by 20% compared to September 2007, has dropped by 3% in relation to February 2008.
Exhibitors adapting better and better to the Western market.
Despite the uncertainties generated by the global financial crisis that is causing every business to suffer, exhibitors at Texworld are adapting their products better and better to meet the demands of the Western market and have realised that it is no longer merely price that is a factor in success. Nowadays success is definitely achieved through quality and creativity, innovation and research, but also by taking European fashion into account and by more assertive methods of communication: an effort that has been made in the area of languages, a more welcoming reception at the stands, increasingly stylish decoration and by highlighting the latest products. And finally by an ever deeper understanding for what Western buyers, lovers of new fashions, quality and organic textiles are looking for...
These efforts are already bearing fruit: according to a brief survey of all exhibitors conducted at the close of the show they have amassed a significant amount of orders: 70% of them confirm their satisfaction as far as the number of visitors is concerned and 80% are very pleased with the ever-increasing quality of visitors. To quote Du Yuanshu, the Vice President and General Marketing Director of the Chinese Shandong Ruyi group: "We were very satisfied with this show, even if there were problems with transport which, however, the organiser coped with very well. Our customers came and we can only give credit to the excellent quality of these visitors. They are particularly interested in our super 200 wool, that is to say our most luxurious products and those with the highest prices."
This was also echoed at Youngor, one the leading Chinese groups: "This was the first time we have experienced Texworld. And to be honest, our concern in coming here was to find outstanding agents who would assist us in developing our network on the Western market," admits Jing Zhao Hui, director and Executive President of Ningbo Worsted Spinning Weaving & Dyeing co. Ltd. and of Ningbo Jinsheng Wool Textile Co, two subsidiaries of the group specialising in worsted. "Of course we also came to meet quality clients and we have received numerous visitors who are interested in our very high-end goods. It is our firm intention to return next September."
Natural materials in the spotlight, but developments in technology too.
As at every September show that presents the fabrics for the next autumn/winter season, the "Wool" sector is particularly lively and there was a crush of buyers in the gangways and at the stands. Wool jersey was similarly in great demand, as confirmed by Joo-Hong Kim from South Korea and manager of Jeil Jersey: "It was our first time at the show and we were obviously very apprehensive when taking the threats of the global economic crisis into account. We are very satisfied as we have found some 60 buyers who are of a high standard and who come from all over: Great Britain, France, Canada, South Africa, Brazil, Chile¡They are interested in our jersey fabrics as a whole, which are mostly pure wool. But there is also interest in our double-faced fabrics: wool and cotton... Jeil Jersey, founded in 1995, has specialised in jersey by working on the suppleness, fluidity and softness of the handle.
This has not prevented other sectors like cotton or silk from being satisfied with this session of the show, especially where particularly creative companies were concerned.
Taking as an example the Lebanese company Kaskas, which specialises in fabrics that are destined for haute couture or for high-end ready-to-wear: "We are content with this session, even if fewer of our clients from the Middle East came because of Ramadan", acknowledges Omar Kaskas. "We welcomed visitors from all over the world who have shown particular interest in our Milano, Calais or in our guipure lace¡±.
The same reaction was echoed by Shandong Hirun from China, who works silk in thousands of ways: "The show went well, we welcomed numerous buyers who came from Italy, France, the United Kingdom and the Lebanon and who were particularly interested in the softest and lightest of our silks or those combined with lurex," explained Xiaoqing Yu, sales manager.
If natural materials were especially sought after, technological developments were also a subject of attention. Like, for example, the new products from the Turkish company Dominant Tekstil which offered cotton lined with a membrane endowed with just about every property: anti-UV, anti-chill or anti-heat, and anti-stress, but, first and foremost, anti-wave which allows mobiles to be cut off instantly in order to protect the body from any harmful current.
At this point we should mention the new product from the Taiwanese company Ho Yu Textile. It blends polyester with a fibre that is obtained from coconut shells, burnt at a very high temperature and which has beneficial properties: anti-bacterial, anti UV... thus creating a functional fabric that approximates organic materials.
Bio technologies a continuing presence.
Since, it must be admitted, anything related to bio technologies was in the spotlight at Texworld. An ever-increasing number of fabrics based on cotton or on other organic fibres were offered at the stands, but also initiatives that benefit sustainable development or protect the planet, fair trade and organic labels are myriad.
A guide that will tell you all you need to know about Eco labels.
What is more, the policy of Messe Frankfurt, the parent company of Texworld, is going in this direction, as Texworld had been chosen to launch the Eco-Textile labelling guide, produced in association with Mowbray Communication Limited, specifically the editor of Ecotextile News. This guide compiles a register of all the labels that currently exist in the organic textiles branch. "It is a real "scout" in the forest of labels and it gives answers to any questions concerning the fundamental procedures involved in certification, expense, technical terms...¡± explains Detlef Braun, a member of the Management Board at Messe Frankfurt.
Every Ecolabel is described in exact detail and is accompanied by all the contact information necessary to learn more about it...
In the same vein, the Thai mission to the European Union celebrated a first, since four of its companies have been presented with the EU Flower label, awarded to Asian companies for the first time. Asia Fiber Public Co, GV Silk, Rama Textile Industry, and Thong Thai Textile were those selected for having respected all the conditions for environmental protection in the production of their yarn, fabrics or dyes.
OCM has chosen "Global Quality Offer"
The Indian company OCM must also be congratulated as the first company to have adopted the concept of "Supply of global quality" initiated by the IFTH (French Institute for Textile and Clothing) in association with Texworld. The directors at OCM have chosen level 2 which satisfies both the controls for PH levels and for detecting the presence of "formaldehyde" as well as of course detecting azo colourants prohibited by the EU Commission.
OCM was established over 80 years ago and manufactures pure worsted or blended worsted. It has a production capacity of 8.4 million metres annually. It was the first Indian company to obtain ISO 9001 certification. In 2007 it was acquired by WL ROSS & CO LLC, an American investment company, headed by Wilbur L Ross, and is henceforth part of the group of international affiliates that constitute Burlington Worldwide.
OCM controls its entire production from the spinning mill to the finishing process, to include weaving and dyeing in a factory located in Amritsar, which has the benefit of state of the art technology. Among its products are superfine merino wool imported from Australia, and also luxury fibres like cashmere, angora, camel hair and silk, as well as blended wools with polyester or Lycra.
Fair Trade and a noble initiative
The initiative launched by the great Indian cotton manufacturer Alok also deserves notice since the company has signed an agreement for a partnership with the Zameen company, whose 6000 small cotton farmers from the Vidarbha region are share holders. They have made a choice for the cultivation and production of organic cotton and thus have the benefit of a fair price and guaranteed purchase of their production by Alok for three years, and all of this under conditions which are entirely transparent. An interesting initiative in the fair trade sector.
The "Green Knowledge Network", a platform supported by the Indian producer Birla, will be put at the disposal of all professionals, whether they are spinners, weavers, manufacturers, distributors, stylists..., who are involved in the business of cellulosic fibres. They will have access to this network and will be able to participate and learn about any initiatives regarding research and development, whether this involves the products sector or the methods of production, technology transfer, development of prototypes, and trials and their results, thus providing increased transparency to the entire cellulose production chain.
Elsewhere, Lenzing, number one in the world for viscose, chose Texworld to launch its new even softer Modal, the use of which has expanded even more in the clothing industry: PROMODAL®. In fact, this one-of-a-kind blend of fibres will allow the range of applications for viscose to be extended even further thanks to the fluidity and extremely soft handle it gives fabrics.
The Chinese clothing industry is marking time, but is determined to remain optimistic.
If the number of manufacturing exhibitors in the context of the CTAF, China Textile and Apparel Trade Fair, was down compared to September 2007, activity at the stands was found to be perfectly acceptable.
Mr Xu, the vice president of CCPIT TEX, did in fact acknowledge that 2008 is a particularly difficult year for Chinese textiles and the clothing industry, but he remains optimistic and will undertake anything necessary for the CTAF to progress and gain in stature. He emphasised the excellent long-standing partner relations with the Messe Frankfurt Group. He also reminded people that the textile and clothing industry was one of the pillars of the Chinese economy.
Young designers received a wealth of offers.
And on the same subject, Zora Gerault, director of Esmod Beijing. who came to present her first promotion campaign for stylists / designers trained in China, is very upbeat about her attendance at the show. She was able to make some very rewarding contacts, such as a Chinese weaver who wants to initiate a reliable partnership with the school.
Finally the presence of the young designers at the heart of the "Designers & Fashion" area, much appreciated by visitors, has already born fruit since offers of cooperation and orders have been the outcome, as several of them have attested.
"We are very grateful to Texworld for having provided us with this space at an international show. We have exhibited in a pragmatic place for exchange and have made contact with all types of people." "As far as I am concerned", explains Seong Bo Yun, who designs apparel for men and for women under the Baron Y brand, "I've already had orders from Italy, serious contacts with Olivier Lapidus as well as with the Neohouse company that was an exhibitor at the show, wanting me to create a line under its label. A factory in Hong Kong has suggested I create designs for its own production line..."
There is a similar echo from Adamah Stein who has seen her horizons expand: "I've received offers of embroidery work in India, I've made serious contacts in Madrid, Florence and in Paris for a major ready-to-wear label. I also really appreciate being able to get to know designers from all over the world better and to exchange views with them, as they were showing their clothes next to mine. Several of us already have projects, in particular to join up in order to purchase fabrics together."
"I have been in touch with countless people with promising prospects; freelance work for drawing, accessories for boutiques and even a firm order for fifty dresses" says Lisa Chassan with delight, who enjoyed meeting young designers like herself and establishing friendships.
So thanks to these initiatives which are pragmatic but make pleasant stories, Texworld is fulfilling its aim: to be far more than just a trade show but a place for meeting people, for establishing contacts between the different players in the textile and clothing network and thus to give rise to convergence and optimism.
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